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The black truffles of Tricastin

The black truffles of Tricastin
The Carpentras Market

8:30 in the morning in Provence. Carpentras wakes up to a misty sky, gripped by a biting chill. In the center of town, the terrace of the Café de l'Univers comes to life with each steaming expresso. A group of bérets carries on heated discussions around mysterious pouches. As you approach the terrace, the air becomes more fragrant. A powerful and persistant odour fills the air and tantalizes our tastebuds. No doubt about it, it's truffles.
 
black truffles

The Carpentras Market Sales of black truffle
Black truffle

It's here in Carpentras that the market for the "black diamond" takes place every Friday morning during the winter months. The market bring together farmers from the region and wholesalers, as well as individuals who have come to initiate themselves, tourists and the old people of Carpentras, supervisors and commentators of the event.

truffle grower Taste of the black truffle
tuber melanosporum
They sniff, they brush, they may even cut into the mushroom to determine quality: Out of thirty listed varieties of truffles, the tuber melanosporum with its slightly bumpy contours and black flesh subtly veined with white is the one which is traded at the markets.
The truffles market is the only one in Provence carried out with such unparalleled discretion. All converation is whispered into the ear! Luckily there are the "oldies" who chat away endlessly, rendering the moment slightly less disconcerting for the tourists.

8:45, the master of ceremonies, dressed in black from tip to toe, walks to the middle of the square and blows the whistle that starts the negotiations. "Around here, we call him the blackbird!". It takes ten minutes, not a second more, for the affaire to be concluded. The market empties as discretely as it filled; the merchants leave with their precious goods. It goes completely beyond us! But patience, the ritual is not over!
 
Black truffle brotherhood
© text: Sandrine Moirenc © photos: José Nicolas

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