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Roussillon, natural pigments

Discover the Roussillon and its Ochres, in Provence

...used in Provençal wall cladding, but also in cheese rinds.

These natural pigments have been used since prehistoric times ; we find them on cave walls. But in 1780, Jean Etienne Astier, an inhabitant of the village of Roussillon, discovered that after treatment ohcre becomes a fade-resistant and non-toxic colouring agent.
He became the first ocrier in France and, in the 19th century, the exploitation of the ochre became industrial. In the Vaucluse, the open-air quarries and the exceptional thickness of the veins (up to 15 metres) make the exploitation very easy and production reaches impressive figures : a record of 40,000 tons was recorded in 1929.

The pigment is used in the making of the lime cladding of Provençal houses, because it resists heat and the sun, but it is also an unsuspected ingredient in certain products : the rind of some cheeses, linoleum, brown wrapping paper, cardboard, ceramic, rubber and cosmetics.

The ochre market fell suddenly in the beginning of the 30's with the appearance of synthetic dyes with their more regular colour. Today, the exploitation of the site is reaching its end, but the Provençal Colorado still offers to its visitors' eyes its majestic panorama. Paths have been marked out to allow visitors to discover, on foot, bicycle or horseback, the extraordinary blaze of colours on its rocky massif. However, be careful with your clothing : remember that ochre is a powerful dye !

In Roussillon, "the red Delphi" as Jean Vilar called it, the "ochre trail" resembles a painter's palette. To understand the treatment and use of these pigments, you really must visit the "Conservatoire des Ocres et des Pigments Appliqués", set up in a former ochre factory. In the heart of the village, the colour of the earth finds itself on the houses' façades or as trompe l'oeils on gates. Classed amongst the "most beautiful villages in France», this magical site is a picturesque maze of alleys and small squares. A wander is a must, from the lower part of town all the way up to the top of the Castrum - the château - with its panoramic views. And if one of the restaurants tempts you, don't resist : the Vaucluse is also a gastronomic region. The lamb of Provence, tomatoes, melons, cherries, grapes, courgettes and peppers, garlic and herbs, olive oil and sometimes truffles are the basis of the area's cuisine.


A Food-lover's Excursion on the Ochre Trail


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